Lecce, Historical City In The South of Puglia
Baroque Splendor and Roman Ruins
Being very crowded during the summer months, Lecce should not appear in this blog, strictly speaking. Lecce, though, is so beautiful that it is a must for anyone interested in Southern Italy. And if you plan your visit carefully, you can still enjoy the exquisite charm of this
over two thousand year old architectural gem.
Read more on choosing a good time to visit further below.
What makes Lecce so special? Is it its stunning and very unique Baroque architecture built in the local limestone? The spectacular façade of the Basilica of Santa Croce (above), its Roman theaters, the charming piazzas, the vibrant atmosphere in the warm climate?
Roman excavations in Piazza Sant'Oronzo
The Roman Theater, a hidden treasure near the cathedral
Lecce still knows the afternoon siesta between the hours of 2 and 5 p.m. That means afternoons are relatively quiet, while in the early evening everything reopens and the city comes alive: people go for their evening stroll, an ice-cream, a bit of window-shopping or for a late (as late as 10 pm) dinner. Plenty of cafés, bars and restaurants offer outdoor seating in balmy temperatures.
One of many bars and cafés in the historic center
See:
Basilica of Santa Croce, completed in 1695. A richly decorated limestone façade, including a large rose window, plus humorous and grotesque figures. Stunning in the evening sun and when lit up at night.
The Roman amphitheater built between the first and second centuries AD for 25'000 spectators, only rediscovered in the 20th century, on imposing Piazza Sant'Oronzo.
Lecce cathedral (Duomo di Lecce), rebuilt in 1230, and its impressive square, lined with historic buildings. Its northern façade considered a masterpiece of Baroque art.
Museo Faggiano, a fascinating museum giving insights into the various historical eras of Lecce. The building itself dates to the 12th century, a must: www.museofaggiano.it.
The old town with its maze of narrow, very pedestrian-friendly streets, churches, palaces and splendid city gates.
Porta San Biagio, one of three medieval city gates
Discover:
The art of papier-mâché (cartapesta in Italian) dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries in Lecce. Today, ornate statues and other decorations can still be admired in many Apulian churches, such as Chiesa di Santa Chiara in Lecce, the most prominent example. Both traditional and contemporary
interpretations of cartapesta can be found at shops in the historic center. You can also book a workshop with local artisans.
Chiesa Santa Chiara showcasing beautiful examples of the papier-mâché art inside
Sleep:
8PiuHotel: A pleasant 4* design hotel. Modern and convenient rooms, gym, an onsite restaurant, free parking. On the north side of town, easy access. A 10-15 min. walk to Porta Napoli. Viale del Risorgimento, 3, Lecce: https://www.8piuhotel.it.
Palazzo de Noha, 4* Boutique Hotel in the old town. A very tastefully restored 15th century palace and courtyard. Intimate rooms, contemporary design, art on display, a beautiful rooftop terrace including a small pool, excellent breakfast, staff very helpful with parking. Via Gulielmo Paladini, 47, Lecce:
www.palazzodenoha.it.
Eat:
La Cucina di Mamma Elvira. A friendly, casual osteria close to major tourist attractions: fish, seafood, vegetarian dishes, meat on the hot stone. Focus on seasonal and regional cuisine, outdoor seating, great selection of Puglian wines. Reservations highly suggested. Via Ludovico Maremonti, 33.
There is also a Mamma Elvira Enoteca (a wine shop serving food) near Basilica Santa Croce: www.mammaelvira.com.
Taste:
A Pasticciotto Leccese, traditional pastry filled with custard cream. Some versions include cherry fillings. The very friendly Il Fornaio Lecce, a small historic bakery on Piazza Sant'Oronzo, has very good ones: www.ilfornaiolecce.it.
A Caffè Leccese, an espresso on ice with a bit of almond milk in a small coffee glass (or cup): delicious and invigorating on a hot day!
Ice-Cream:
On or near Piazza Sant'Oronzo there are 3 excellent ice-cream shops within a 2 minute walk from each other:
Martinucci Lecce: a popular Puglian chain for ice-cream, pastries and more. A café with outdoor seating, on Piazza Sant'Oronzo Angolo: www.martinuccilaboratory.it.
Pasticceria Natale: a historic and beloved ice-cream and pastry shop (also fine pasticciotto) on Via Salvatore Trinchese, 7: www.natalepasticceria.it.
Settimo Cielo Gelateria e Yogurteria: vegan, gluten- and lactose free products, also very popular: Via XXV Luglio, 26.
Shop:
Via Palmieri, between Piazza del Duomo and Porta Napoli is a beautiful and relaxing street where you can find out of the ordinary handmade ceramics, design or fashion.
Piazza Mazzini, a 5 minute walk from the old town: vibrant, modern and popular with locals for shopping of all sorts. There are the Max Mara and Weekend Max Mara fashion boutiques, plus the White.7, maybe the most prestigious designer store in town. A few more high-end shops can be found around the corner on Via 47 Reggimento Fanteria.
The fountain at popular Piazza Mazzini
Parking:
Parking spaces are very hard to come by in Lecce. Your best bet is the fairly new public parking garage Parkejoo – Lecce. It is clean and close to the tourist area, open 24 hours. The entrance and exit lanes are tight for larger vehicles, though. Via Michele de Pietro, 1: www.parkejoo.com.
On some days we try our luck on Viale Don Giovanni Minzoni and its side streets. From there it is a 2 minute walk to Porta San Biagio, one of the three prominent gates to the historic center.
On a Sunday afternoon or evening, when the city is more quiet, you can look for a public parking space on or near Piazza Mazzini.
The cathedral and its bell tower on a day in early June
Best Time To Visit:
Lecce gets more crowded year after year, but I still think that May, early June, mid or late September and October can be good months for a visit. After all, it's a real pleasure to sit outside in a restaurant, a café or a bar in this wonderful city when the weather is warm.
Sunday afternoons and evenings are nice if you want to avoid the worst crowds: many shops are closed and Italians flock to the beaches on weekends, often leaving the city to the tourist.
Last Travel Date: June 2025
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